From colorful eateries with Tibetan Prayer Flags on the patios and a Dia de los Muertos display in a VW bus, to a truck with a bumper sticker that read, “Eat Beef: The West Wasn’t Won by Eating Salads,” to a vibrant Creative Arts Center with an anti-racism sign in the window and a “Politically Incorrect Gas Station,” this sleepy little town seems to be full of quirky contradictions. But perhaps it’s no wonder, as it is an area that was historically home to ranchers and miners until more recent decades when artists started moving in. While there are still ranches in the area, it seems that the demographic is slowly shifting. I spoke to one local woman, an artist, who moved to Patagonia nearly 40 years ago. Although the town hasn’t grown since then, she has seen some changes, like people coming in to fix up the old adobe homes, and mountain bikers lining the street before heading off to explore the trails. Another nice feature of the colorful town is the park lining the main street, a lovely stretch of green (even in winter) that includes gazebos and a butterfly garden.

The next day we drove down to Patagonia Lake State Park to take a boat tour of the lake. It was a lovely boat ride where the captain narrated our journey—past the shorelines filled with ocotillo forest, velvet mesquite trees, cattails, and junipers. The birding expert on board pointed out the great blue heron nests on the tops of the trees (on the little island in the middle of the lake where people can camp!), and the grebes and other ducks floating along the water. I loved when the boat went into Ash Canyon (known for its one-million-year-old volcanic ash) and Deep Cove, a serene part of the lake where the captain turned off the engine so that we could notice the quiet stillness. After the boat tour, we walked over a huge narrow bridge and had a picnic in the day-use area while watching the afternoon sun shimmer on the water below.

Next up was Patagonia-Sonoita Creek Preserve, which had a small open-air visitor center and a volunteer to tell us which trails we might like. We caught a glimpse of red-tailed deer, and we meandered along the creek trail to see the flowing stream. And just up the road from the preserve was the lovely Paton Center for Hummingbirds, which has a beautiful history. In the 1970s, a couple by the name of Wally and Marion Paton opened their backyard to strangers who would like to see the variety of birds that visit their home on the outskirts of Patagonia. With bird feeders around the 1.4-acre creekside property, the home became known as rare spot to see the Violet-crowned hummingbird, and in the decades since, people have come from all over the world to visit this Arizona birding hotspot. Nearly 250 bird species have been sighted at the center, and during our short time there, we saw a Violet-crowned Hummingbird, a few Goldfinches, several American Robins, and a beautiful red Northern Cardinal—just to name a few. (But no partridge in a pear tree.) Now overseen by the Tucson Audubon Society, the center even has a viewing station with binoculars so that visitors can get the best glimpse possible of these beautiful fluttering little creatures. Clearly my phone camera can’t do these birds justice, but it was so fun to see my first cardinal, visit this special place, and talk to the informative and kind volunteer!

After so many nature adventures, it was time to think about food. Possibly the best place for vegan food in Patagonia is Gathering Grounds, with a variety of sandwiches, breakfast bowls, and wraps. We especially enjoyed their vegan Green Machine Bowl! (It was so good that I started eating and almost forgot to take this picture!) We also stopped by Ovens of Patagonia (Country Store, Restaurant, and Bakery) for their Green Chile Tamales, and loaded up on snacks at Red Mountain Foods (natural food store) before our picnic at the lake. The Velvet Elvis is a popular pizza place in a cute Mission-style building, and Queen of Cups is a hidden gem that has a wine bar and light appetizers, some of which may be made vegan.

Before heading home the following day, we took a drive northeast of town to explore a bit. The drive wasn’t terribly interesting, until we saw three baby bobcats, that is. With their whitish-grey fur and spots, we could barely see them through the barren trees, but what a special sighting and a beautiful way to end our trip! I’d love to come back during the Spring peak season to hone my birding skills, see more wildlife, and hopefully experience some pretty trees in bloom along the creek. Though it’s a quiet place, Patagonia has a unique charm, and its unpretentious air and eccentric vibe make it a lovely attraction for this city gal.

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The guided tour of the Zane Grey Cabin next door was excellent, and it was interesting to learn more about this eccentric man, who was a prolific author in the early 1900s. He introduced many people to life in the Wild West through his novels, the most famous being Riders of the Purple Sage, published in 1912. He was an avid hunter, however, and felt he deserved special treatment in order to begin hunting before the season began. When the Arizona Game & Fish Society told him no, he was so upset that he left Arizona never to return, leaving his cabin to disrepair. Although some things haven’t changed since those early days here in the Wild West, I am glad that more people are beginning to acknowledge the true history of who this land was originally inhabited by, and the importance of treading lightly on the earth, for the sake of the land, the animals, and future generations.

The next day we headed up the road about 15 miles to the cute tiny towns of Pine (pop 1,700) and Strawberry (pop 1,100). We stopped at the Strawberry Schoolhouse, the oldest standing schoolhouse in the state, dating back to 1885. Unfortunately, it was closed (seems to be on a reservation basis only now), but we were able to peer in the windows to get a glimpse of life long ago. I had been years earlier, and I could see that they still had on the wall a list of rules for schoolteachers of the era, including “do not loiter downtown in ice cream parlors”! We then headed to Pine for a walk along the main street. We stopped in the herb shop, a delightful place with all sorts of homemade teas, remedies, and body care products. We also visited the farmers market and the lovely Pine Creek Lavender Farm, which was filled with row after row of beautiful purple blossoms—not to mention the cute little shop that smelled amazing. Next we hiked along Pine Loop Trail, but needed to pay attention to the map, as the meandering trails can be a bit confusing. Though there were beautiful views of the pine forests and mountains in the distance!

The highlight of our trip was visiting Tonto Natural Bridge State Park. There were several areas for picnicking, numerous trails and vistas, and the largest natural travertine bridge in the world! It is 183 feet high, and the formation of the bridge occurred over 5,000 years ago when aquifers carrying dissolved limestone deposited calcium carbonate to form a travertine dam. We saw it from above and below, and we loved being underneath while watching the water fall from above. Be careful though—the rocks below can be slippery! (And we got quite a workout on the hike back up the trail.) The Waterfall Trail was another gorgeous trail in the park—we felt like we were in a different world. We can’t wait to go back and check out the other two trails and have a picnic. It would make for a nice day trip from Phoenix!

As for the food, you would think that the small town of Payson, home to the world’s longest running rodeo, would not have many vegan options. And although you do have to do a bit of research, some pleasant surprises might turn up! We had dinner one evening at Macky’s Grill, a cowboy themed restaurant serving standard American fare. Not only did the have two vegan burgers with vegan mayonnaise, but one of the appetizers was salted edamame—so glad to see that they had a tasty healthy option! But our favorite spot was Duza’s Kitchen, a cozy, eclectic restaurant in Payson. The owner/chef has described his style of cooking as a blend of Italian, American and Balkan. We had the Crispy Potato Bowl and the Veggie Breakfast Bowl, along with a delicious Chai with almond milk. I loved seeing all the colorful artwork on the walls, and we enjoyed the sweet farmhouse-like atmosphere of the place!

All in all, our trip to this part of Arizona’s Rim Country was a laid-back couple of days filled with new insights and beautiful scenery. It was the holiday season, so there were even festive lights on display, especially at Payson’s serene Green Valley Park, known as the “Jewel of Payson.” While walking around the park, we noticed the beautiful sunset over the lake and the peacefulness of the area. Sometimes adopting a slower pace of life, even for a weekend, is just what’s needed—especially during such a busy time of year!

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The morning after our arrival, we went on a lovely hike near our campground. As we walked farther along, the path became narrower and covered in brush. But we pushed aside the leaves and branches so that we could go deeper into the forest, as the recent rains made it seem like we were transported to the Pacific Northwest, especially when we came upon a wonderland of fungi hidden in fallen logs, tree trunks, and underneath the ferns and other foliage! From bright yellow mushrooms to earthy oyster mushrooms, the area was filled with more mushrooms than we had ever seen. We were the only ones there in that part of the forest, and it felt so magical to have the place all to ourselves. 

And no, we did not see the Mogollon Monster on our trip (other than this wooden statue, which was damaged during a recent storm), but it was fun reading about this quirky piece of Arizona folklore. For over 100 years, there have reportedly been a few sightings of this Bigfoot-like creature, but I think most people will agree that it is nothing more than a tall tale. (Though one musician used inspiration from the stories to write a song encouraging people to not litter in the wilderness, lest the Mogollon Monster target them for ruining his territory!) 

There are several man-made lakes in the area, and our favorite is Woods Canyon Lake, which is a gorgeous mountain paradise. We spent a few hours one morning kayaking on the lake, working our way to the narrow edge of the lake that became a serene meadow-like area, with beautiful wildflowers, grasses and ferns growing along the edge of the water, and several orange butterflies and blue dragonflies flying overhead. But the most amazing part was pulling up to the edge to watch three little chipmunks going about their daily routine, foraging for food in the grass along the lake, looking up now and then to nibble on flowers before scurrying on their way. We were just six feet away from them, and it felt like being in a National Geographic video! 

We also spent a day exploring the little nearby towns that I had never been to before. Our first stop was Heber-Overgaard (pop. 2,500) a small community that was settled in 1883 by members of the LDS church. We stopped at Windy Hills Lavender store to admire its beautiful lavender fields and check out the cute family-run store with hand-made soaps, spritzers and lotions. We continued on to Show Low (pop. 11,000) and briefly visited Pintail Lake, a nature preserve and wetland with a variety of birds and plants. It was a small but peaceful place to observe the wildlife. We then drove to Pinetop-Lakeside (pop. 4,400), a lovely little town where we stopped for lunch. I can see why some people have summer homes here near the forests! 

But by far the most incredible stop on our journey of visiting towns along the Rim, was the teeny-tiny community of Greer. With only about 50 residents, it’s not even a town, but it is certainly an amazing place. We went there to see the Little Colorado River, and it did not disappoint. Walking along the river, I felt as though I was in a faerie wonderland, surrounded by colorful wildflowers, lush greenery, fluttering butterflies and dragonflies, and tall woodland trees (mostly pine and fir) lining the banks of the river. I sat there for awhile, dipping my toes in the water, and tried to savor the experience so that I can remember it when I’m back home in the hot desert metropolis. 

As for vegan food on the trip, we mostly ate food we had brought with us to eat at the campground, such as black bean burgers, sundried tomato & basil pasta, bagel sandwiches with vegan cream cheese, and of course, s’mores! But on the way to the campground, we stopped at Ayothaya Thai Cafe in Payson for delicious vegan red curry and pad se ew. We also had dinner in Show Low one evening at The House, which had a few vegetarian options that were easily made vegan, and a fun and casual atmosphere with a huge yard, picnic tables, herb garden, and several corn hole games (and they sometimes have live music as well)!  

There are so many amazing outdoor wonders along the Mogollon Rim that we didn’t even get to see them all. I think this will be a two-part blog post, with the next one focusing on towns along the west end of the Mogollon Rim, such as Strawberry, Pine, and Payson…to be continued!

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From the moment we arrived at Best Friends, I was in awe at the sheer beauty of the place. From the gorgeous canyon and flowing creek below to Angel’s Rest Memorial Park and the lovely labyrinth, I could tell that this is a place that is truly loved and respected by the many dedicated staff and volunteers who spend countless hours caring for animals in need. 

Founded in 1984 by a group of caring animal lovers, Best Friends has grown over the decades, becoming the largest no-kill animal organization in the U.S. I loved learning about the history of the sanctuary, but most of all, I loved getting to see the animals. We took a tour of “Wild Friends,” a section of the property that is dedicated to rehabilitating injured or sick wild animals, such as tortoises, ravens, minks, ducks, and many more. I especially loved seeing and learning more about the owls! 

We also toured “Dogtown,” one of the most popular places at the sanctuary, with hundreds of friendly dogs—many of whom happily greeted us as we stopped along the way to learn some of the personal stories as to how these dogs came to be here. It was interesting to learn that Best Friends took in 22 dogs that had been abused in professional football player Michael Vick’s dog-fighting operation years earlier, but happily, many of the dogs found loving forever homes after their stay at Best Friends. 

My favorite experience at Best Friends was the afternoon I spent volunteering at the “Bunny House,” which houses over 100 adorable rabbits in need of care. I cleaned out the rabbit enclosures, fed the rabbits lettuce that they happily munched away on, and even got to pet a few of these soft, sweet little beings. It’s hard to imagine the lives they led before arriving at Best Friends. A few were rescued after escaping from a farm where they were being raised for food. Some were rescued from hoarding situations. And many of them were simply dumped and discarded by humans—humans who don’t realize the extent to which these animals experience emotions like fear, pain, and grief. But it was wonderful talking to the staff at Best Friends who spend their days caring for these animals, and hearing their stories of what brought them to Best Friends. 

As for the food at Best Friends, it’s no surprise that their entirely vegan cafe is—even at five dollars for the lunch buffet—absolutely delicious. Some people will make the drive up from Kanab just for lunch and the view, even if they aren’t working at or visiting the sanctuary. After all, they say that the food is free, and the five dollars is for the view. They may be right, as it was one of the most amazing views I’ve experienced from a restaurant, and the delicious vegan meals and desserts made it even more enjoyable. (The menu changes each day, and features delectable dishes such as Thai Peanut Sweet Potatoes, Three Bean Chili, Alfredo Pasta, and assorted desserts like Vanilla Cake with Chocolate Frosting!)

I was very sad to leave Best Friends, but hopefully I can return soon. (Like next year! And the year after that…) Next time, I’d love to tour “Horse Haven” and “Piggy Paradise,” and volunteer at “Cat World.” I can see why many people leave Best Friends with paw prints on their heart, and sometimes, even a new friend to take home!

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Either way, Kanab seems like a gorgeous wonderland to me, and after four days here, I didn’t want to leave. My favorite part of our adventures in and around Kanab (pop. 4,700) was visiting Red Canyon/Peek-a-Boo Slot Canyon, just 10 minutes from the downtown area of Kanab. Luckily, we had a four-wheel drive truck that made the bumpy and sandy road to the slot canyon passable. Once we arrived and started walking through the narrow sandstone passageways of the slot canyon, I was in awe. They say this particular slot canyon is second only to Antelope Canyon in Arizona, and I can see why! It was truly one of the most memorable travel and nature experiences I’ve had. 

Since Kanab was experiencing a heat-wave during our visit, we headed up the mountain to Dixie National Forest, stopping in cute tiny towns and quirky roadside attractions along the way. I loved The Rock Stop in Orderville, which used to be a dinosaur museum and is now a rock and gem store with a little coffee shop and lovely patio with beautiful views of the mountains. 

Once we had our fill of the forest, we went back to Kanab for a (mostly) air-conditioned visit to the Kanab Heritage House, and had a free tour to learn about the history of the area, from the Mormon settlers who came here in the mid-1800s to why Utah is called The Beehive State. I also stopped in a cute metaphysical crystal shop that had Sedona vibes all over it!

One of my favorite quirky attractions was our visit to Moqui Cave: Museum of Ancient History. Not only was it one of the most unique places I’ve been in, but it was a refreshing natural 65 degrees inside! We loved all the rocks, fossils and geodes, as well as learning more about prehistoric history—and there were real fossilized dinosaur tracks (and fossilized dinosaur poop!) inside. 

Going from the refreshing cave museum to the wind-swept coral-colored sand dunes was quite the experience. At Coral Pink Sand Dunes Conservation Area, we climbed the dunes and walked barefoot in the pink sand. The views were worth almost getting blown away! 

Another popular attraction near Moqui Cave and Best Friends is the Sand Caves, which requires a hike up a steep cliff that I wasn’t brave enough to go, but my husband had no problem with it! He experienced amazing views, but especially loved seeing all curvatures and colors inside the caves as he waved to me from above. 

As for vegan food in Kanab, there were surprisingly several options for a small desert town. Peekaboo Canyon Wood Fired Kitchen is a completely vegetarian restaurant that had three plant-based burgers to choose from, as well as numerous pizzas and decadent desserts (including the incredible vegan carrot cake)! Rockin V Cafe is a popular restaurant with several vegan options as well (including a fabulous vegan burger, The Happy Planet) and I loved the artsy atmosphere and historic building. Wild Thyme Cafe has a delicious vegan curry dish, and both Wild Thyme and Rockin V had yummy vegan chocolate mousse. 

But one of my favorite parts of the trip was talking to the locals–mostly people who have moved to Kanab within the past few years–who tell me that the long-time locals aren’t always happy about the changes happening in Kanab. I can see how change would be hard, but I hope they realize that with this change comes more awareness of their sweet little desert town, and the happiness it brings to visitors who stop to admire its natural wonders.

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So although we try to head up to Flagstaff (pop. 76,800) every chance we get to go camping, it seems that many of our trips result in some new discovery. Here are a few highlights of our favorite places and things to do from some of our recent trips! 

No trip to Flagstaff would be complete without hiking through the forest. One of our favorite hikes is Griffith Springs Trail, which is especially beautiful after the winter or spring rains, with a flowing stream and gorgeous yellow wildflowers. 

We also love Kelly Pocket Trail, which can be quite peaceful when we go early in the morning. The rays of sunlight shining through the trees give it an otherworldly feel, and the soft forest floor makes it a comfortable hike.

And up a winding mountain road lies Lockett Meadow, a majestic wonderland that is practically in the clouds! Spring and summer is a great time to visit, with purple lupines and bright yellow flowers dotting the landscape. 

If we want to spend time in town, relaxing at Wheeler Park with a good book is always nice after lunch, and there are plenty of great restaurants to choose from. Our favorite restaurant in Flagstaff is Toasted Owl, which has an adorable patio with colorful murals, and one of the best vegan burgers we’ve ever had. In fact, a portion of the menu is dedicated to vegan dishes. The vegan BLT, vegan egg breakfast, and vegan burrito are great, too! 

Two long-time favorite restaurants that have been around since the 80s or 90s are Macy’s European Coffeehouse, a vegetarian cafe that is a great meeting place for locals, and Morning Glory Cafe, a cute breakfast/brunch spot that went fully vegan in early 2022. And then of course there’s Red Curry Vegan Kitchen, a little Thai spot just north of Route 66, as well as several other Thai and Indian vegan-friendly restaurants. 

So given all the beautiful hikes, plenty of vegan options, and laidback mountain lifestyle, it’s no wonder that Flagstaff is the perfect getaway for us. 

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We started our trip (in the summer of 2021) with a few days of camping at Barton Flats Campground, about 35 minutes from Big Bear Lake. The forested campground was lovely and had great facilities, and very welcoming hosts! We loved taking an evening stroll around the entire campground, but our most adventurous part of the trip was our hike from the campground to Jenks Lake, about a 2-hour round-trip hike. On the Jenks Lake Trail we saw squirrels nibbling on pinecones, chipmunks scurrying about, and a small flowing creek. 

Once we arrived at the lake, we sat on the pier for a bit to watch the morning sun shimmering on the water. While having a snack at the lovely picnic area along the lake, we looked up and saw an eagle flying overhead—such a majestic sight! 

After a few days of camping we drove up the mountain to the town of Big Bear Lake (pop. 5,300) for a stay at an Airbnb. Spending an hour or so at the beach on the lake was nice, but we were thrilled when a local told us about Bluff Lake Reserve, a much more secluded and smaller lake that was right up our alley. As an ecological reserve, it was such a pristine place, and walking through the forest next to the lake was absolutely magical. We even got to see the Champion Lodgepole Pine, which at over 440 years old, is one of the largest lodgepole pines in the world! 

In addition to the lovely walk along the Woodland Interpretive Trail next to Big Bear Lake, the yummy vegan food is what made the trip complete. As if the vegan crepe options and adorable outdoor patio at Cafe Crepe weren’t enough, they also have organic and fair-trade coffee, locally sourced ingredients, and recyclable packaging. We didn’t eat in many restaurants during this trip, but if we go ever go back, I’d love to try Himalayan Restaurant, which serves Indian and Nepalese food and has many vegan options! 

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After driving up the mountain from Palm Desert and into the cool forests, we discovered an eclectic town of artists, outdoorsy-types, and retirees. Idyllwild (pop. 3,800) is also home to the Idyllwild Arts Academy and several summer arts festivals, and the nearby granite outcrops are popular among mountain climbers.

What we loved most about this visit was taking a drive outside of town and farther up the mountain to Lake Fulmor, which was especially peaceful in the quiet of the morning—with the squirrels, chipmunks, turtles, and ducks as our only companions. We visited the lake twice, and both times had it mostly to ourselves!

We also hiked the Ernie Maxwell Scenic Trail, explored the Fuller Mill Creek area, visited the Nature Center, and enjoyed relaxing on the deck of our cabin overlooking the forest. Sitting on the deck watching the squirrels climb the trees and jump onto our deck for a snack, we almost felt as though we were in a treehouse. 

There were several vegan-friendly restaurants, including Cafe Aroma, a colorful bistro that has live music and artwork displayed by local artists. And it has several vegan dishes! We also enjoyed relaxing on the patio of La Casita, where we had vegan tacos and chips with a variety of colorful salsas (and our server was a delightful woman who had just moved to Idyllwild a few months earlier, and still seemed to in the honeymoon phase, eager to give us recommendations about things to do in the area). We ended our trip with a morning visit to The Sunflower, a cute little bakery with a lovely large outdoor space—and delicious vegan lemon poppyseed muffins!

And I can’t discuss Idyllwild without mentioning Mayor Max, the “mayor” of the town—a friendly soul who loves to visit with the local kids and greet the tourists. He just happens to be a…golden retriever. We didn’t get to meet Mayor Max this time, so we’ll just have to go back!

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